6.16.2009

Non-stop, je te plie en deux

A square in Prague
Sorry for the crazy delay in getting the Europe posts up. I had some Internet woes last week, which have happily been rectified.

What's more fun than going to Europe? Telling stories about your trip, of course! 

So, after receiving some last-minute time off from work, I decided that there was no better way to celebrate than to head over to Prague and Paris for a week of touristing. My journey began with a commute to Montreal, and then I hopped on an Air France jumbo jet and headed across the ocean. First stop: Paris passport control, second stop: Prague!


Stare Mesto
Nem-loo-veem ches-ki

After carefully reviewing the Lonely Planet Prague City Guide, and neurotically reading hotel reviews on Trip Advisor, I decided to place my bets on the Ehrlich Hotel in the Zizkov neighourhood for my four-day stay in Prague. As a gal traveling Europe alone, I wanted to be extra sure I was avoiding the sketch.

My hotel was incredible -- picture Toronto's Drake hotel, but less hipster and much cheaper. But Zizkov definitely was a mistake. I chose this hood based on the fact that it was the least touristy district of Prague, which certainly makes it a very charming place, but a little tricky for someone with extremely limited Czech. Every errand -- from ordering food to buying metro tickets became an exercise in not getting yelled at by frustrated shop people. When in doubt, nem-loo-veem ches-ki (the phonetic spelling of "I don't speak Czech") can save one's ass in a pinch. But still, the local pubs boasting homemade dumplings and Pilsner Urquell sounded like a great time in the guidebook, but in reality, they are not such a welcoming place for solo foreign women. Bummer, to be sure. 

A common sight!

But, all was not lost. I got a kick out of the lovely eccentricities of Zizkov, including my local Bowling & Thai Massage destination and the ubiquitous Non-Stop bars. Still not sure what that means, but I'm guessing it's got something to do with 24-hours of good times.

A non-stop bar with the Ehrlich Hotel in the background

Classic!
Castles and Casinos

To my eye, the charm of Prague lies in the mix between old and new. In Wenceslas Square, the site of many a demonstration during the fall of communism, beautiful historic architecture shares the same address as the leaders of capitalism: Starbucks, Gap and McDonalds.

Wenceslas Square

In a perfect exercise in contrast, the Museum of Communism (a must-see!) is sandwiched in between a casino and a McDonald's. Go figure.

Museum of Communism

It's been 20 years since the Velvet Revolution in Prague, and it was very interesting to see the country in transition. As the fifth most-visited country in Europe these days, it seems to be adjusting quite nicely.



Prague Castle

The tram line into Wenceslas Square 
What you're really here for

Okay, enough tourist talk--This isn't a travel blog. Let's get into the fashion.


I found the fashion in Prague quite disappointing. Hate to say it, but it's true. After wandering the city for three days, it wasn't until my last day that I found anything fashion-related of interest. I had been dreaming of quirky vintage shops, but in reality, every vintage store I visited carried what seemed to be cast-offs from North American Goodwill stores. 

I picked up an antique watch for a very reasonable price in Stare Mesto, the fashion mecca of Prague (the home of Gucci, Louis Vuitton and many other luxury brands), and I was all aglow over my purchase until three hours later when the watch stopped working. It hasn't ticked the time ever since. I wear it as jewelry now--what can you do?

Prague does have a thriving fashion scene though, this I know for sure. I just didn't have the good fortune of finding it in my express visit. 

Some names to watch:

Just what you'd picture if I told you that they designed the perfect Prague spring jacket.

Cocktail dresses with just the right amount of draping and asymetry.

A modern take on the shift dress.

Think pastel mini dresses.

Cocktail dresses with a focus on the waist.

And, for regular updates on the Prague art & design scene, check out the Czech blog Design Guide

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